Discover Périgord and Quercy

Suggestions of visits around Le Petit Manoir de Vitrac

The Dordogne region is home to 1001 castles, many of them private, it counts 10 "Most beautiful villages in France" of which 9 close to Vitrac in Périgord Noir, and many caves or natural shelters dug by the rivers in the limestone cliffs, most of which have been used by humans since Prehistoric times, either as shelters or as places of worship. Nearby Quercy, South and East of Vitrac, is a drier region with more caves, extraordinary villages like Rocamadour built in medieval times on a cliff's edge, and open landscapes on the limestone plateaus inviting to hike around. We love this region and will be more than happy to help you find the sites most likely to suit your interests, or the hidden gems off the beaten path, even in high season!

Near Le Petit Manoir, two valleys concentrate the majority of sites to visit. Even if you stay for a short period of time, we recommend that you visit both valleys as they offer different perspectives on life in Dordogne then and now :

• our stretch of the Dordogne valley, called "Valley of six castles", runs between Montfort to Beynac. You can travel the river by boat ("gabarre") or canoe, or drive around to see medieval castles and picturesque villages overlooking the river. The period of historic interest is the Middle Age, as the Dordogne river was the border between the kingdoms of France (north) and England (south), and numerous battles were fought here during the "Hundred years war".
• about 40 minutes north of Le Petit Manoir runs the river Vézère, home to 14 Unesco World Heritage sites of the Prehistoric era. The most famous is the Lascaux painted cave in Montignac, followed by many smaller cliff dwellings down river up to Les Eyzies. The banks of la Vézère are wilder and a little quieter than the Dordogne, it is fascinating to retrace the steps of our ancestors as they roamed this wild country in the glacial era.

Half-day visits

• Our favourite garden: Marqueyssac 💚
  An ideal starting point to discover the geography of our "Valley of the 6 castles", and to understand the medieval history of the Dordogne from above. In the gardens, stroll along the superb "cliff walk" on a balcony over the river, facing Beynac, the French stonghold, Castelnaud, the English castle and then the village of La Roque-Gageac. Imagine the din of the battles that took place there centuries ago, right before your eyes...

• Our "most beautiful village": Domme 💚💚
  Come up and enjoy an artisanal ice cream while contemplating the view from the esplanade of the bastide of Domme! A "bastide" is a medieval fortified city. This gem near Vitrac is our favourite village, for the view from the esplanade and the pretty path along the cliff to the public garden and around the old city walls. Old stone lovers will be enchanted by the magnificent old houses lining its narrow streets with their sumptuous hidden terraced gardens, and for the charming shops... not forgetting the cave hidden in the cliff.

• Close to Le Petit Manoir, we recommend a walk through the quiet village of Montfort, below the private castle. La Roque-Gageac and Beynac 💚 also deserve to be listed among the "most beautiful villages in France", the first one being rather crowded in season. Nestled on steep cliffs, both offer a rather strenuous yet very scenic walk up the narrow medieval alleys.

Castle visit, anyone? You can visit one of the 1001 Perigordian castles every day, each with its own special vibe

• Castelnaud is ideal with children, for the animations and the Museum of medieval weapons, a remarkable collection.
• Beynac is the archetypal medieval castle, a favourite of film directors, and is best reached by walking up from the Dordogne through the narrow streets of the village. Ridley Scott was filming there in February 2020 for "The Last Duel", with Matt Damon and Ben Affleck (released in October 2021).
• The ruins of Commarque 💚💚 (signposted from the road between Sarlat and Les Eyzies), our "most beautiful castle" for the mysterious atmosphere of its wild and secluded valley, which is reached after a short walk down the woods. It is a "co-seigneurie" or castrum, which gathers in the shadow of a high donjon, still standing, a set of ruins of fortified houses of seigneurial families. The site has been inhabited since prehistoric times, with a painted cave hidden in the cliff. One can guess the dwellings of the peasants who used to live at the foot of the castrum, which have inscribed evocative remains in the cliffs. The entire history of Périgord across the ages is revealed in this bewitching place. In hot weather, a morning visit is recommended.
• The Fénelon castle 💚 in Ste Mondane, driving up the Dordogne towards Souillac, is remarkable for the collection of antique furniture presented in great detail, the educational explanation of the stone slate roofs (toit de lauzes) and the majestic setting with centuries-old trees. The spirit of the Marquis de La Mothe-Fénelon, born there in 1651, is alive and well. Ridley Scott filmed the scenes of the medieval military camp under the ramparts of the castle.
• Les Milandes castle, a more recent castle, will tell you about the life of Joséphine Baker, and offer a nice walk in the French gardens or a chance to attend a show of its birds of prey.
• Puymartin is known for the ghost of its White Lady... and the collection of roses in its park, magnificent at the end of May, beginning of June.
• Lacypierre 💚 in St Crépin et Carlucet, a jewel of a small castle nestled in a green valley. Its restoration is the life's work of the current owners' parents, whose visit is as charming as the castle itself. A moment out of time!

To follow in the footsteps of Périgord peasants, visit the Cabanes du Breuil, near Commarque or Puymartin: an old farm with its quaint dry-stone huts classified as Historic Monuments, where you can go back to a not so distant time when agriculture was the mainstay of Périgord.

Half an hour north of the Petit Manoir, if you are interested in local architecture with the imposing stone slate roofs that weigh tons on sturdy carpentry, you will love to discover the village of St Geniès or the more distant village of St Amand de Coly 💚. A signposted walking route (map available in our visitors book) leads around St Amand and ends at the abbey church, whose presence dominates the quiet village.

In warm weather, from early June to September, a visit to the Jardins d'Eau in Carsac, 10 minutes from your cottage, offers a refreshing change of scene. This remarkable water garden offers a bucolic stroll between ponds and waterfalls, and an aquatic labyrinth above a large water lily pond that is refreshing in hot weather!

To the north-east of Sarlat, the gardens of Eyrignac, with their French parterres, are a delight to wander through. For those interested in topiary, the head gardener at Eyrignac offers shrub pruning courses. Every Monday evening in summer, there is a dance evening pic-nic party for guests all dressed in white "Les Pique-nique Blancs", see on their site.

And of course, the descent by gabarre (tourist boat) or canoe of the noble "Valley of the six castles" is highly recommended, from Carsac or Vitrac to Beynac. On canoes, you can take a picnic with you in a barrel and stop on the banks of the river to relax and enjoy the views.

 

DAY TRIPS

Vallée de l’Homme (Valley of the First Men, along the Vézère river)

If you are only staying two days in the Périgord, we advise you to visit on Day One our "Valley of the six castles" in the Dordogne, a high place of medieval history, and to discover on Day Two the Vézère valley, between Montignac-Lascaux and Les Eyzies de Tayac, known as the "Valley of Man", where no less than 14 sites are classified as World Heritage Sites by Unesco, for the remains of human settlements dating back 400,000 years!

This heritage of universal significance is unique in the world for its richness, and offers in many places the opportunity to discover the life of cliff dwellers that border the Vézère. Follow your inspiration to meet Cro-Magnon and his descendants...

• The tour starts at Lascaux IV, the ultra-modern cave art centre in Montignac, opened in 2016, where the original cave has been reconstructed using 3D imaging. Online booking is compulsory for the guided tour of the reconstructed cave, which is followed by free time in the exhibition on cave art and the history of the original site, whose educational content is very useful when visiting other sites in the valley.
  The most visited site in the department, this site has received a lot of criticism, particularly for the very high price of the visits (20€+ per adult). It is true that in the high season, groups enter the cave at a very fast pace, which leaves little time to appreciate the works of art that follow the relief of the galleries. And you visit a reconstruction, not the original cave.
  However, the fame of Lascaux is due to the number of its paintings, more than 2000, in large format, of a beautiful diversity and with a dizzying technical mastery. It deserves its nickname of "the Sistine Chapel of Prehistory". We have learned a lot here. If you visit us in the low season, you will learn a lot from this site.
  NB: The first replica of Lascaux, called "Lascaux 2", opened in 1983 and is still open to visitors. Our guests who have been there have appreciated the quality of the experienced guides, with fewer visitors than Lascaux IV.
• From Montignac, the Vézère has carved out a typical landscape of cliffs and cultivated fields, which its recent classification as a "Grand site de France" is designed to preserve. The castle of Losse is located not far from Montignac and is a pleasant place to visit. It differs from the other castles by its position overhanging the Vézère, which you can only see from the south bank. We advise you to leave Montignac by this bank in the direction of Sergeac (road not very frequented). A must-see photo!
• Then, either you want to join the main route to St Léon and the troglodytic sites and you cross the (very) small bridge at Thonac. Or you have time to make the diversions to Sergeac, a lovely little village on the edge of the Vézère (the road does not go any further), and then retrace your steps to the bridge at Thonac to head back to St Léon. In Sergeac is the prehistoric site of the Castel Merle valley and the inn of the same name, which we have not yet discovered.
• The "most beautiful" village of St Léon sur Vézère💚 runs along the river on the north side, with its small waterside restaurants, its magnificent Romanesque church and the lanes that border its two imposing private châteaux. It's a great place to take a break, a picnic by the river. A short walk around the village is available in the welcome booklet. We recommend a visit to the Donjon et Manoir de la Salle, a fortified tower and medieval stronghold at the entrance to St Léon, a beautiful property with features evocative of its many functions in the surrounding village.
• A few kilometres downstream, we highly recommend a visit to the Roque St Christophe 💚💚, a large troglodytic fort and city where up to 1500 inhabitants lived in the Middle Ages, clinging to the cliffs in wooden structures which have now disappeared. It is a site unique in Europe for its size.
• A little further on, the Maison Forte de Reignac is a vast, well-restored dwelling on several floors, which complements the previous visit well, as here, the troglodytic construction in the cliff, made of stone, has stood the test of time.
• Still descending, on the other side of the river, the Abri de la Madeleine is a rural site where remarkable prehistoric sculptures were discovered. A very pretty place where you can visit a troglodytic village of peasants and its small improbable chapel, along a beautiful path in balcony on the Vézère.
• The river flows down to Les Eyzies de Tayac, where the National Museum of Prehistory presents a good number of objects discovered in the numerous sites of the valley, arranged according to the chronology of the finds.
• Prehistory enthusiasts will want to visit the preserved sites in the Vézère valley, such as the authentic Font de Gaume cave at the entrance to Les Eyzies, the Combarelles cave or the Cap-Blanc shelter. The visit is by reservation only, in small groups, and it is necessary to book well in advance to have a chance to go. Tickets can be purchased online on the Vézère Valley Prehistoric Sites website.

We have only listed here some of the prehistoric or troglodytic sites. Details can be found at information points in the Vézère valley.

Our selection of restaurants in the Vallée de l'Homme :

• Montignac : Le 4 € at the exit of the village in the direction of St Léon.
• Thonac : le Boïdicou €€
  
• St Léon sur Vézère : many possibilities, we recommend the Restaurant de la Poste, and in season le Déjeuner sur l'Herbe € and Le Petit Léon €€€, both outside.
• Les Eyzies: Several gastronomic restaurants, including the Hotel-restaurant du Centenaire €€, and the table at the Hotel des Glycines, "le 1862" €€€ one star in the Guide Michelin 2023.

The Vézère valley also lends itself to canoeing, which is more challenging than the Dordogne river because the river is narrower, deeper and the flow is often stronger. You will find canoe rental outfitters in the villages listed above.

In Quercy (Departement of Lot)

The second classic day trip from Le Petit Manoir is to Rocamadour and the Gouffre de Padirac.

• Rocamadour is the local equivalent of Mont St Michel, visited for centuries by thousands of Compostela pilgrims who have come to climb on their knees the 216 steps of the great monumental staircase that leads up to the sanctuaries! We'll just tell you that this incredible site fully deserves its reputation, especially as on the way you'll discover the rugged landscapes of the wilderness of the Causses du Quercy, so different from our green and lush Dordogne. You will appreciate to leave early to walk around the village of Rocamadour before the crowds of tourists set in later in the day. If time allows, make the derout to the picturesque fortified mill Moulin Fortifié de Cougnaguet, which spans a bucolic stream called L'Ouysse, where you will surely find some grist to grind 😉

• Le Gouffre de Padirac 💚💚 (Padirac chasm) is exceptional for its depth (80m), and for the cathedral size of the rooms dug by the underground river. The boat ride on the underground river is unique. This is a very popular site and online booking is required. Bring good walking shoes as the underground route is quite long on slippery paths, and raingear as seepage water oozes from the vaults all along the route, sometimes in waterfalls if it has rained recently!

• Several very beautiful villages or towns around Padirac in the Lot: Martel, whose medieval town or "ville aux 7 tours" is very well laid out, around the remarkable old market hall (markets in summer on Wednesdays and Saturday mornings). Autoire 💚 a little jewel of noble Quercy architecture, nestled in a natural cirque with a beautiful waterfall, which offers a complete change of scenery in a mountainous setting. Beaulieu sur Dordogne 💚 is also worth a visit for its very "riviera" atmosphere along the river and its beautiful houses.

• Still in the Causses du Quercy, on Saturday mornings we love the market in Gourdon, about 20km south-east of Vitrac, which also gives you the chance to visit this pretty walled town. It is a more authentic market than Sarlat in the summer, and considerably cheaper.

• If you are passionate about cave art, and want to visit a 'real' cave, not a replica, then book your entry to Pech Merle 💚 online. This site is about a 2 hour drive from Le Petit Manoir near Cahors in the southern Lot. It is a beautiful cave with concretions decorated with the famous painting of horses. Nearby, take a trip to St Cirq Lapopie, an artists' village built into the cliff on the banks of the Lot, a jewel that is very popular in season. Both of these sites can be visited in a long day from Le Petit Manoir, or are well worth an overnight stop before or after your visit with us!

Down the Dordogne river towards Bergerac

• Downstream from the valley of the 6 castles, the village of Limeuil 💚 stands at the confluence of the Dordogne and Vézère rivers. The beautiful houses stretch from the river to the top of a steep cliff, where the panoramic garden is located. Superbly situated with a breathtaking view of the confluence, this cool, bohemian garden makes for a lovely stroll. Towards the top of the village, we had lunch at the restaurant "Au bon accueil", whose terrace shaded by a sprawling wisteria is very pleasant on a hot day, and had a good time.
• Not far from Limeuil, on the south bank of the Dordogne, is the village of Cadouin and its famous abbey. Its cloister 💚 is a late Gothic gem, decorated with figures so expressive you'd think they were alive. On the square in front of the abbey, welcoming terraces invite you to take a break.
• Once past Limeuil, you can continue along the Dordogne to the Cingle de Trémolat, more famous meander than Montfort, but very similar in its geological origins and geographical profile.
• Two sights on the way back are the prehistoric cave of St Cirq, nestled in a tiny picturesque village, and the imposing Château de Campagne and its park with trees several hundred years old.

South of the Dordogne river

Ceou Valley

• Le Céou is a stream that flows from the Causse de Gramat, not far from Rocamadour, and meanders between the Lot and the Dordogne for 55 kilometres before flowing into the Dordogne at Castelnau. For cycling enthusiasts, a beautiful bike greenway runs along the Céou from Castelnaud to Daglan for 22 kilometres, in a sparsely populated, rocky and very pleasant landscape.
  We love the charming village of Daglan 💚 and its surroundings, known for the low walls and dry stone huts built by the peasants with the stones extracted by ploughing the cultivated land. There were many vineyards in Daglan before phylloxera, the low walls separated the plots while the huts were used to shelter the wine growers and store tools. The Maison de la Pierre Sèche, in the village, offers in season exhibitions and guided walks to discover this vernacular architecture.
  Maison de la Pierre Sèche, Daglan. +33 5.53.29.88.84

Le Pays des Bastides (fortified villages country)

In the south-west of the department is the land of the Bastides, these fortified towns built in the Middle Ages to gather the population in safety around a central square, animated by markets and fairs. These bastides are numerous on the borders of the Dordogne, the Lot et Garonne and the Gironde and can be found as far as the foot of the Pyrenees.

• The bastide of Monpazier 💚 is one of the most beautiful, whose medieval architecture has been remarkably preserved around its famous "Place des Cornières", very lively on Thursday, market day, and on the occasion of numerous festivals and events. In the narrow streets and around the square are many craftsmen, cafés and restaurants. Monpazier is an hour's drive from Vitrac via Daglan on a pretty road that winds through the countryside. This route is much nicer than the shorter GPS route from Belvès to Monpazier.

Restaurant in Monpazier: Privilège du Périgord, in the bastide, 58 rue Notre Dame. Tel: +33 5 53 22 43 98

• Nearby Monpazier to the south stands the Château de Biron and the pretty village of the same name, in a dominant position. It is a giant castle, spectacular for its size rather than its architecture.
• For lovers of medieval sites, 30 minutes south of Monpazier is the fortress of Bonaguil, at Fumel in the Lot et Garonne. From the top of its rocky spur, it dominates the valley and the medieval village. They form an ensemble, unique in Europe, of gigantic proportions and in a remarkable state of preservation.

North Dordogne

The Périgord Vert, agricultural and wooded, is also worth a long day's visit, with priority given to Brantôme, the Venice of Périgord. Driving time from Vitrac to Brantôme: about 1h45.

• Brantôme 💚 is the best known, with its medieval town nestled in a closed meander of the tranquil Dronne, facing an imposing abbey. A postcard landscape!
• Bourdeilles, further downstream along the Dronne, is less well known, although its castle overlooking the river and a charming mill are well worth a stop.
• Further east, Villars is a sleepy village whose subsoil hides the beautiful concretions of a vast cave, and whose surrounding woods are home to the Renaissance jewel of the Château de Puyguilhem, the hunting lodge of a noble family close to François I, magnificently decorated and very well preserved.

Hiking trails and bike paths

• In Vitrac, on foot from the Petit Manoir, you will find in the welcome booklet the map of the 2 signposted walks in the commune, one towards the beach of Caudon and the village of Montfort, the other towards the castles of Marobert and Veyssieres. 7-8 kms each, bring good shoes as the path is sometimes steep. Mountain bike variants are well signposted.
• Also from Vitrac, for more experienced walkers, a 16km loop allows you to reach La Roque-Gageac via the crests, then return via the Dordogne valley. The outward journey is often shaded, and the highlight of the walk is the discovery of the village of La Roque Gageac overlooking the top of the cliff. The return journey is more exposed to the sun and more traveled, by the small roads and paths of the valley, so bring good shoes and water.
• We have available for hikers the information sheets for the Sarladais walks (sold by the tourist office, free photocopies on request). They cover 13 villages around Sarlat, including Beynac, la Roque-Gageac and Vézac on the Dordogne.
• Many suggestions for walks of varying length and difficulty are available at https://pleinenature.dordogne.fr/ throughout the department, on foot or by mountain bike. We have printed some short walks to discover our favourite villages in this booklet.

The list of beautiful places to discover in the Dordogne, the Lot or the neighbouring Corrèze is endless...